贝努动力储存腕表

DATE INCLUDED.

DATE INCLUDED.

机芯

机芯

持续的创新与完善是格罗斯曼传统的组成部分。因此,年轻的格罗斯曼表厂持续进行众多自主开发。贝努动力储存腕表机芯采用贝努系列著名的经典100.2型导柱机芯,带有2/3夹板、阶梯式摆轮凸轮,以及格罗斯曼典型的微调螺丝。

它具有MORITZ GROSSMANN GLASHÜTTE I/SA品牌机芯的所有标志性特征与手工艺细节。此外,更增添了全新的格罗斯曼摆轮、经过进一步改进的格拉苏蒂棘轮、按钮式手动上链装置,以及动力储存显示。

THE JUMPING DATE DISPLAY

THE JUMPING DATE DISPLAY

The jumping date display of the calibre 100.3 relies on a complex system composed of a date switching wheel, a release lever, a switching star and a date ring with the marker.

The date switching wheel consists of the wheel itself, a ring-shaped switching finger spring, and the switching finger. The switching finger can freely rotate on the wheel but is secured by the ring spring in a position that allows movements on both sides but always requires tensioning of the spring. The mechanism is powered by the hour wheel at a ratio of 2:1, so the switching wheel rotates anticlockwise once every 24 hours. The transmission ratio of the date marker mechanism is calculated to 11.6°, so the increments of the date marker ring add up to a total of 31 days.

THE DATESETTING MECHANISM

THE DATESETTING MECHANISM

Apart from the precisely jumping date, this type of date display has the advantage that the switching finger does not engage with the date switching wheel except for the few milliseconds during which the jump to the next date is taking place. Thus,
the date can be corrected in either direction at any time.

The separate setting crown at 10 o‘clock allows the date to be corrected, for instance at the end of a month. Normally, this setting crown is not active, so inadvertent corrections are prevented. The crown must be pulled out to set the date. During the
process, the movement continues to run and the date can be set by turning the crown in either direction. A jumper spring causes the date ring with the marker to precisely engage in the right position.

THE DATE RING WITH MARKER

THE DATE RING WITH MARKER

The ATUM Date is the first watch to be endowed with the calibre 100.3. A complete clockwise date scale from 1 to 31 is located on the outer periphery of the dial. The blue date numerals clearly contrast against the applied hour markers. To avoid competition
between the date indicator and the hour and minute hands, it points to the date from the outer circumference instead of from the centre. It is positioned on a date ring beneath the dial. The ring, with the marker, moves along the scale in steps of one day. The prominent bracket-style date marker is manually crafted and annealed to a brown-violet hue. It frames the current date numeral, assuring superb legibility.

格罗斯曼摆轮

格罗斯曼摆轮

贝努动力储存腕表运行平稳,每小时振频为18,000次。100.2型机芯中运用了全新设计的格罗斯曼摆轮,因为并非振频越大,走时精度越高。摆轮的构造可以实现在手工制作中对惯性扭矩的最佳调整,并通过最小空气阻力与尽可能小巧的体积获得较高的动能。摆轮轮缘上的螺丝数量被精简至最少。具有不同螺丝头高度的平头螺丝用于递增调节惯性扭矩。此外,轮缘上带有均匀分布的钻孔,借此可以降低重量,并平衡摆轮。圆柱形的光滑摆轮轴装配于摆轮轮缘中,并可在需要时轻易更换。格罗斯曼摆轮采用Nivarox游丝,向内弯折四分之一个弧度,并借助黄铜销固定在槽口游丝滚轴上。

格罗斯曼按钮式手动上链装置

格罗斯曼按钮式手动上链装置

一枚手动上链腕表平均每星期就应重新设置一次。格罗斯曼的制表师以更高的操控与功能可靠性应对这一挑战。只需轻轻拉出上链表冠,全新按钮式手动上链装置便会变为指针设定模式,并同时掣停机芯。上链表冠立刻回到初始位置,现在可以对指针进行精准设置。之后可以通过上链表冠下方的按钮重新启动机芯,无需再次拉动表冠。由此,此装置同时变回上链模式。借助这一完美的指针设定装置可以消除两种可能的故障源头:在设置流程中杂质侵入表壳,以及在推入上链表冠时误调指针。

调校装置

调校装置

贝努动力储存腕表具有配备微调计的调校系统,通过这一系统可以对腕表进行精确至秒的后期调校,且不会对摆动系统的平衡造成影响。通过格罗斯曼微调螺丝可对微调计毫无张力地向两个方向移动。

三重阶梯式太阳纹饰

三重阶梯式太阳纹饰

上链轮系在齿轮上带有抛光边缘倒角,由此赋予了零件最高亮度。棘轮作为轮系中最大的部件还装饰有传统的三重阶梯式太阳纹饰,与宽形条纹以及手工雕刻的整体外观和谐相融。

黄金套筒

黄金套筒

轴承宝石——白色蓝宝石水晶——安装于凸出的黄金套筒中。与所安装的、分别由手工退火的钢质螺丝一起,它们突显于夹板表面上方。这一凸起式布局以传统格罗斯曼腕表为蓝本,由此可以拆卸并清洁单独轴承宝石,而不会在组装时对夹板造成伤害。

手工雕刻

手工雕刻

2/3夹板上的所有镌刻,以及擒纵轮板和摆轮凸轮上的镌刻都由手工完成。

技术规格

  • 机芯 100.2型自制机芯,手动上链,五方位调校
  • 零件 227个
  • 宝石 26颗宝石,其中3颗安装在以螺丝固定的黄金套筒中
  • 擒纵系统 锚式擒纵
  • 摆动系统 防震式轴承固定格罗斯曼摆陀,带有4个平头螺丝与2个微调螺丝,Nivarox 1游丝带有80号宝玑末端曲线,形状源于古斯塔夫·戈斯腾博格(Gustav Gerstenberger)
  • 摆轮 直径:14.2毫米,振频:18,000次/小时
  • 动力储存 上满链42小时
  • 功能 小时与分钟显示,小秒针附停秒装置,格罗斯曼按钮式手动上链装置,动力储存显示
  • 特性 格罗斯曼摆轮 / 通过侧方按钮解锁指针设定并启动机芯 / 双色条状动力储存显示区域,由差动轮系驱动 / 节省空间、经过改良的格拉苏蒂棘轮,具有回转功能 / 通过位于阶梯式摆轮凸轮上的格罗斯曼微调计螺丝进行调校 / 导柱机芯带有未经处理的德国银材质的2/3夹板与支柱 / 2/3夹板、摆轮与擒纵轮板带有手工镌刻 / 宽形横向格拉苏蒂菱纹 / 棘轮带有三重阶梯式太阳纹饰 / 以螺丝固定的凸出黄金套筒 / 可单独拆卸的离合上链装置 / 停秒功能,用于指针设定
  • 机芯尺寸 直径:36.4毫米,厚度:7.56 毫米